Leaving Olappamana 27 December

The trip from Olappamana to Cochin was brutal. No air-conditioning. Our driver Boban bobbed all over the road to overtake buses, cows, goats, people and tuk tuks. We arrived to Nimmy and Paul's like two travelers trudging for days on the Sahara. Driving up to their sweet, walled compound I peered out the taxi to see Paul standing there waiting to welcome us (Boban had called). Paul smiled, and a wave of relief washed over me. Nimmy came out and they both welcomed us warmly. The house and yard are beautifully manicured and were an oasis of renewal and refreshment.

Comfortable beds, air-conditioned bedroom and wifi. There was a Christmas tree--Nimmy and Paul are Syrian Christians--St. Thomas came from Syria to found the church in Kerala, Misty thinks around 400 years ago. Lots of Christians around Cochin and in Kerala.

Nimmy was a flurry of activity in her pristine kitchens (she has three--one inside, one on the back porch and one outside). We discussed the menu, but I was so exhausted and sticky that I couldn't think straight. We sat down to a beautiful and unexpected lunch--I loved the two large shrimp (I think in a coconut "curry") atop a delicate, small dosa. There was more but I have to consult my photos....I must have been exhausted if I can't remember what I ate!

Later we made pearlspot (a local delicate white fish) with a lovely mixture of caramelized onions and seasonings wrapped in a banana leaf and "grilled" or pan-grilled. Since Misty was still not eating much, Nimmy decided to make comfort food. She'd had a long day of teaching (this is her busy season) and was also exhausted, so it suited her and Paul too. She showed me how to pressure cook toor dal, which can use a little soaking usually--a revelation after all these years of using a pressure cooker--lid on but not the jigger, bring to boil until steam comes out the top, place the jigger on and wait until the "first whistle". Remove it from the heat and let it cool. Such a great texture. She made us rice and dal. Then for Misty's poor stomach she made yogurt curry, which Nimmy says mothers will make their daughters and bring to them when visiting. Nimmy says that when her mother makes it she guards it to the last drop.

We had some excellent tasting and beautifully presented food the next day. Nimmy showed me how to make our breakfast "puttu" something I'd never seen--a crumbly mixture of rice flour and water steamed with grated coconut (and banana if you want). The texture was light and similar to angel food cake. Nimmy showed me so much, she's a pro...the day we left she was hosting a demo and dinner with 25 people after a cooking class lunch with others. A spiced grated coconut "curry" with brown chickpeas and another with white chickpeas rounded out breakfast.

I will admit, this was my meltdown day. I've not been sick, but I had a small hot and sticky hissy fit. Then later dropped my camera (I cried) and had to go out a buy a new one, which actually turned out to be a good experience due to Paul's advice. He sent us to a small shop with some really charming, kind men. They (like Nimmy and Paul) bent over backwards to get me set up. So now I have a great new camera. Unexpected expense!

Nimmy made six plus dishes for lunch:
Two big scampi marinated in garlic, chili, cocum, and ginger, cooked slightly without oil then seasoned with a little coconut oil and served on a small "dosa" pancake. Wow.

Fish curry with local superfresh sardines, I was swooning over that.

Fresh squid curry made like the shrimp.

A fish roll--kingfish cooked and shredded and cooked with onion, ginger chili, minced tomato, chili and turmeric powder and cilantro. It was rolled into small logs, dipped in egg and fine, fresh breadcrumbs, and fried in oil. Wow.

A simple dry, stir-fried cabbage "thoran" with a base of coconut oil, black mustard seed, dried red chili, sliced shallots and green chili. When the shallots colored she added shredded cabbage, turmeric and curry leaves. The dish was covered, and cooked until tender and slightly wilted, about 3 minutes. Nimmy made a hole in the center of the cabbage and poured in some grated coconut, smoothed the cabbage back over and cooked awhile longer.

White anchovies rubbed with white pepper, chili powder, turmeric and salt. She fried them in coconut oil until crispy and added curry leaves toward the last half of cooking.

In the evening a couple, both teachers from Mumbai came with her parents from Boston and their two small boys for a cooking demo and dinner. It was a lovely evening with several courses--the squid, "meen molee" (fish in coconut milk), vegetable stir-fry, and dessert--a traditional Christmas cake with fruit. They made entertaining dinner companions.

We had a slight fly in the ointment early in the day: we'd found out from Paul that all commercial taxis would be on strike in Kerala on the day we had planned a 8 or 9 hour drive through Kerala to Tamil Nadu and Madurai with Boban in his hot shakemobile. No easy way to get to Madurai. No train tickets available. So Paul called a friend with a taxi service and he kindly took us. I called Boban to cancel and he was not happy--the money meant a lot to him--but we couldn't risk it with him. He called me 8 times and texted me twice asking me to send him my friends when they come to Kerala.

Paul's friend used a private car license to the border and when in Tamil changing back to commercial. That was an intense experience. We loved the drive, so very India with shops and people lining the road in towns then stretches of rice paddies and coconut trees and grapes. Misty and I decided that rice paddy green is the ultimate in spring green. Coming into Tamil we could see differences in the people, clothing and landscape. Less English here too. The people are darker, more rustic, the saris are more cotton no silk and a bit countryish looking. Lots more fields under cultivation--millet and rice are staples with coconut. Our driver said Tamil is known for producing India's vegetables and they get many $$ concessions. He said that they work very hard. No doubt.

Our trip took around 10 hours and we got out once only for lunch. It was fascinating and not at all uncomfortable with air conditioning on high and all that amazing scenery and people going about village life moving past us. I saw a dead dog by the side of the road and couldn't talk for awhile. It struck me so hard--I suppose because it's symbolic of the pain and difficulty everyone here seems to endure.

Our driver was very intelligent, prosperous and kind hearted--a Hindu. We had so good talks, he has a brother in Florida who is quite wealthy. He got us into the traffic and crazy congestion of Madurai. I started hyperventilating, but Misty said don't look. I couldn't stop, smile. All the tuk tuks and cars and animals and people yikes. Cows calmly chewing when inches away trucks and buses whizzed by dangerously. We paid a tuk tuk driver to lead us to the hotel because we got lost. The driver claimed it was his fault! It was not. When he drove us to our big hotel we heaved a sigh of relief. He dropped us, I told him he was my Indian brother, looking out for our welfare as a brother would. Trip cost us 9000 rupees with tip--about 225 dollars. Then he had to drive 10 hours home to Cochin!! I felt so guilty. He wanted to get back to his tiny daughter. When we sat in the lobby to check in I began to cry with relief and with a certain love for that man.

Americans should know that India is not scary. I was afraid of it but it's much like the rest of Asia. I keep forgetting where I am.

Hotel is great with hot water, great shower and beds of comfort--the simple things of life. Will post later on why we came: the temple of Meenakshi, which Misty says is a huge holy site for Indian Hindus.