The Homestretch

Waylaid
Monday 10 January 2010

We took a taxi to the Laxmi Narayan temple and got waylaid into a tea shop where Misty bought a beautiful painting. They fed us wonderful teas from around India while we sat, looked and waited for her purchase to be packed. At the temple I didn’t want to get my favorite socks dirty (shoes off in temple) so I went to buy a pair of socks on the street. Misty came out; they wouldn’t let her photograph inside, which was why she’d wanted to come to the temple in the first place.

Conveniently, a Sikh tuk tuk driver offered us very cheap fare to Chowndi Chawk, Old Delhi, if we would stop at “just one shop and look”. Of course they get a kickback. So, waylaid again, we did. Afterwards, he didn’t want to take us to Old Delhi because of traffic—kept saying that the subway (more expensive) would be better, cleaner and faster. But we wouldn’t let him off the hook. He grumbled about it the entire way.

He dumped us into a crush of people, the likes of which I’ve only seen in New York Chinatown on a Saturday in spring. Shoving, pushing, looking and hawking from every shop—pashmina, saree, on and on. I was looking specifically for Paranthey Wali Gali—not easy to find, down an alley warren and more, back dark and smelley places where I thought, no way, then we came out into a main street and it was a tiny open shop on the corner.

Two guys sitting up front on a small platform with an old blackened wok full of hot oil (don’t even ask) and a huge blob of chapatti dough next to the guy sitting cross-legged with a rolling pin and round rolling thingie/board: one rolled and one fried the yummy stuffed breads. We crammed into a table in the back and happily half the menu was in English. I deciphered that "quali flower" was cauliflower--that comes from having a mother who was a non-native English speaker. Thanks MOM!

A stainless tray with mint chutney, vegetables and a couple lightly sweet fruity mixtures were thrust down and then a cashew filled and a cauliflower filled “parantha” (paratha) walked over and joined them. So much fun to find and sit and eat there. It was all very tasty--I can see why the chef at the pricey Metropolitan Hotel in Delhi recommended it fondly. Two paranthaand trimmings: R75, less than $2.

We lurched slowly on through the darkening streets and increasing crush to stop at a very popular chain called Haldiran’s, a cafeteria sort of place. I ordered bhel puri, a salady mixture of puffed rice, cooked diced potato, peanuts, cilantro, onion, tomato, puffed dal, pomegranate seeds and sev (thin chickpea noodles). It is usually dressed with sweet-sour tamarind chutney. Yum. Misty had lassi again. But downstairs she ordered takeway samosa (very good—spicy with potatoes, fried onions and masala spices and raisins) and a heart shaped paneer breaded and fried thingie while I ordered 4 tiny khandwi—a sort of steamed, tender chickpea flour noodle rolled with coconut, cilantro and spices (mustard seed). Also a plain dhokla—a baking powder risen turmeric-yellow, savory cake with black mustard seed, topped with cilantro and fried long green chilies. I’m about to go and eat a bit of them now. They cost about 60 cents in all.

The taxi ride home was in an old jeep like truck that could have held half of Delhi—okay, maybe 1/8th—anyway the driver dropped us back at the ranch for just R450 after a little happy haggling—about $11. Glad the food was so cheap. Thirty something, good-natured driver had to help us two middle plus aged ladies down from the back. He gave Misty his hand to squiggle down. When it came my turn I took his hand and he put his arm tightly around my waist, and literally carried me down! Copping a feel. The blonde hair does it everytime….

12 January 2010 Wednesday AM

Took a day off yesterday, laid around, slept, read, worked a little and walked the neighborhood--tried to get money from two ATMs and both were not working. Sigh.

Today is our last day and hopefully I’ll get some money from an ATM. I’m down to R120, about $3. We've had our breakfast (provided) of toast, muesli and milk plus tangerine/orange and banana and tea for Misty and two boiled eggs, toast, banana and tea for me. It's served at Eleven's little room in the back. We're dealing with email and such.

We will do our last bit of shopping in Delhi. Tomorrow I have a full day cooking class with Jyoti, a well-known and highly praised Delhi cook. I’m looking forward to it because I’ll have a class, then do a market, eat street food and go to a restaurant together!

More later.
We return on 15 January!!!! Overspent and overtired....